Caleta Tortel is a fishing village in southern Aysén. The village was founded in 1955, primarily to exploit Ciprés de las Guaitecas — wood that over millions of years has adapted to the damp climate here and developed a high resistance to decay. Although once abundant in the surrounding area, the tree is now threatened. Known locally simply as "Tortel", the village has been built on stilts and has no roads; instead, a network of boardwalks and stairways (made from Ciprés de las Guaitecas) connects Tortel's houses and docks. These stilted walkways and stairways can make access quite tricky for travelers-by-bicycle.
The sleepy fishing village was inaccessible via land until 2003, when construction of X-904, the road connecting the village with the Carretera Austral, was completed. The surrounding geography is rugged, comprised of ocean fjords, channels and estuaries, glaciers, and mountains. The Northern Patagonian Ice Field is 15 km (~10 miles) north of Tortel — those wanting a closer view should inquire with local fisherman about visiting by boat.
Best in Caleta Tortel
Eat
Somewhere Local
The village features various local eateries, many of which are not official restaurants or food establishments. Wander the network of boardwalks and stairways until you see a menu or smell something delicious. Wander to the door, knock (if necessary) and inquire about their options (during lunch and dinner hours, many will be serving a menu del dia). You'll likely be invited inside while the local prepares your meal. This is an affordable way to experience authentic local cuisine; plus, it truly makes for an unforgettable experience.
Stay
Cabañas Mari-luc
Easily the best-reviewed accommodation in Tortel. Campers can choose between cabañas or tent-camping. Tents are pitched on wooden platforms with hammer and nails provided (to attach your tent to the platform). Cyclists beware: reaching the campsite requires trekking down, and then up, a few hundred stairs. The place also features a sheltered common area and spectacular views of the surrounding fjord.
Ferries from Tortel
TABSA (Transbordadora Austral Broom) runs ferries between Puerto Natales and Puerto Yungay, with stops in Caleta Tortel and Puerto Edén. The service does NOT run during the winter and is frequently cancelled due to inclement weather. Reservations can be made online or in Tortel.
to Puerto Yungay
| Dec, Jan, Feb | Each Friday night, 23:00 (11pm) |
| Nov, Mar, Apr | Three Fridays; check reservations |
to Puerto Natales
| Dec, Jan, Feb | Each Saturday night, 23:00 (11pm) |
| Nov, Mar, Apr | Three Saturdays; check reservations |
Flora Spotlight
Ciprés de las Guaitecas
- Threatened species of conifer (cone-bearing seed plant) used as material for Tortel's wooden walkways and stairways
- Extremely decay resistant, making it a valuable material for building construction
- Scientific name is Pilgerodendron
- Native to rainforests and subpolar forests of southern Chile and southwestern Argentina
- Wood is a yellow-reddish color and gives off a distinct spicy-resinous smell
- Commercial trade is prohibited, except with a permit (listed under CITES Appendix I)
Bike route from Caleta Tortel to Villa O'Higgins